The review itself, after that nasty lead-in paragraph, is actually not completely terrible, especially for...well, a newspaper; I doubt that the Chronicle's editors put a lot of stress on their writers churning out the best of the best in video game-related journalism.
That being said, well, yeah, of course it's a no-brainer that this guy is slightly "misled." If that's your perception, nowadays a lot of people tend to be "misled" into thinking this way about Nintendo. Is that their fault, and that of the media? Perhaps. Does it help anyone who likes Nintendo, or Nintendo themselves, to whine about it or just notice how "utterly stupid and mainstream" these comments are? Definitely not.
Everyone seems to think that it has to be one or the other - either you get the cookie-cutter blood and guts, kill to your heart's content games (of which there are several quality titles), or you get the masterpieces that Nintendo puts out. I respectfully disagree.
And about those consumers that aren't worth sacrificing anything for. What about consumers that want both? I'd like to be able to enjoy the latest game from Nintendo while knowing that just about every other genre available to a gamer is not only available, but well covered. I don't think that's too much to ask, and I don't think that it's an uncommon request.
Just my thoughts. I, too, though, wouldn't be surprised at another crash in the industry, which I totally see Nintendo flying through.