Topic: Component video switch boxes

[anubis6789]

I'm getting a new TV soon and it only has one component input and I would like to use it for both my GCN and DVD player, so I searched the net for them and most were WAY out of my price range.

Anyway I was wondering if there were some inexpensive  component video switches that were at or below $100 or is there a way to make my own, either way help would be greatly appreciated.  

[DRJ]

I havnt seen any component video switchers cheap. I would recommend using a S-Video switch box. I got one from BestBuy for 19.99 and it has 5 inputs. I have my DVD hooked up to the component input on the TV my GCN, XBox, and Sattalite go to the S-Video.

Unless you really have to have Component I would just go with S-Video. Much cheaper and it provides a very high quality picture.

[evilnate]

Actually, I think that there might be a solution for you.  You know those switch boxes that allow you to hook up multiple game consoles and are in the $20-$30 price range?  The ones I've seen usually have groups of three RCA plug inputs - one for video and two for audio and a single output that also uses RCA plugs.   Instead of hooking up video and audio, why not just hook up the component outputs of the cube and the DVD player, and then run the component cables out of the output?  I think it would work, since the switch box doesn't do any processing, it just passes the signal through, no matter what the signal is.

[NinGurl69 *huggles]

You're ASSUMING that the internal design/wiring of a component cable is exactly the same as that of a RCA cable, and that they transmit the same things?

Does that mean I can just use a set of RCA audio cables in place of Digital Coaxial cables, which also look the same too?

I'd do some (no, A LOT) of research before trying any of that stuff.

[Shorty McNostril]

To my knowledge, the colour of the plug makes no difference what-so-ever.  The different colours are there to make it easier to put the right plug in the right place(colour-coded).  The cable is just a copper string.  All the important parts for the various RCA plugs(eg. sound, video, optional video etc,) is built into the TV and output device.  I've run audio through the yellow before and vise-versa.  (Hope I didn't confuse anyone)

[evilnate]

Quote
Originally posted by: Professional 666
You're ASSUMING that the internal design/wiring of a component cable is exactly the same as that of a RCA cable, and that they transmit the same things?

I'm not ASSUMING - I know.  A componet cable is an RCA cable.  The cable is simply a means of transmitting information.  It doesn't matter what the information is.

Quote

Does that mean I can just use a set of RCA audio cables in place of Digital Coaxial cables, which also look the same too?

Yes.  I use a set of Monster Cables originally designed for Composite Video and Stereo sound for my DVD to TV connection.

Quote

I'd do some (no, A LOT) of research before trying any of that stuff.

Actually, it sounds like it's you who needs to do A LOT of research before spouting off.  I've been working in the Audio/Visual field for 6 years now, and I know what I'm talking about.  The only reason that I qualified my statements above is that I haven't personally tried the switch box connection for myself, but there's absolutly no reason that it wouldn't work.  I wouldn't have posted if I didn't think that it would.

[NinGurl69 *huggles]

I stand corrected and educated.

Oh, evilnate, is there a special reason why A/V companies release differently labeled & colored cables (RCA as opposed to Component) and jack-up the prices on the "higher-end" product (the component cables) other than to take even more of our money?

[anubis6789]

Actually Evilnate video RCA cables carry more bandwidth (best term I could come up with) than audio RCA cables, it has something to with the max MHz. Havn't you ever noticed on a set of high end composite cables with both audio and video that the video cable is slightly more thick than the audio cables?

While this won't bother much if you have a single video signal(as in composite) but when you have three seperate video signlas and two of them get down graded while the other one stays the same you get some very odd side effects, such as to much red in the picture, to much blue in the picture, so forth and so on.

Now keep in mind that is only true if the switch box internal audio wires follow the same rules as the cables, if they are all made with video cables in mind there shouldn't be a problem. I have heard of some people not having problems when using a composite switch box, but I do not feel like going out and buying different switch boxes only to find that they don't work.

This is why I would like a dedicated component switch box,(aswell as the fact they might include stereo audio jacks) or like to know how to make one my self so I can get exactly what I need.

If anyone does knows of a composite switch that doesn't lower the max MHz for the audio jacks please tell me, and thanks for all the input it is probably the most help I have ever gotten anywere.

[evilnate]

Quote
Originally posted by: Professional 666
I stand corrected and educated.

Oh, evilnate, is there a special reason why A/V companies release differently labeled & colored cables (RCA as opposed to Component) and jack-up the prices on the "higher-end" product (the component cables) other than to take even more of our money?

Quote
Actually Evilnate video RCA cables carry more bandwidth (best term I could come up with) than audio RCA cables, it has something to with the max MHz. Havn't you ever noticed on a set of high end composite cables with both audio and video that the video cable is slightly more thick than the audio cables?

To answer both questions, companies sometimes use a thicker shielding around cables "designed" for composite video.  In the case of the Composite Video Cables, they thicken the shielding to prevent interferrence or loss on the video signal.  However, if you use a decent set of cables, the shielding around all three would be more than adequate.  I just wouldn't use those thin Radio Shack cables for Stereo Audio.

As for the switch box itself, as long as you buy one from a decent brand (again, I'd steer clear from the Radio Shack brand stuff), you shouldn't have a problem with signal degredation.  The actual run within the box itself is very short.

[NinGurl69 *huggles]

I've seen switch boxes from RCA and GE, and the "videogame" switchbox from Pelican Acc. (which is also released under the Gamestop brand).  Anyone mind letting me know of several decent brands?

[JSasky]

Dude!

Run your GC on a direct Component input.

DVD gets the S-vid!

Where are your priorities man?

Seriously though the RCA box idea is not a bad idea.  A single piece of wire has more than enough bandwidth, oodles to run one video signal.  When you are talking as short of distances as we are, from the GC to the TV, bandwidth does not play into the equation.  And since the video signal is already being broken apart into 3 seperate wires you have increased your BW 3 times.  If you were running a longer line, like to your neighbours house, you would be more concerned with copper loss then BW.

The only difference between an RCA switcher and a Component switcher is that they change the color of the inputs and stick a different sticker on it.  Oh yah and they charge 1000 times as much.  

The videophile and audiopile industy is rife with BS.   If have seen articles where they talk about copper skin smearing as a valid topic on sound quality, give me a break.  It is all in their mind.

Sorry did'nt mean to rant, but you should save your money and get the RCA switcher box.

[anubis6789]

Dude you are right, were are my priorities?

Yeah after I started thinking logicly(and financialy) I figure all a component switch box was is an over priced composite switch box, so I decided to go to a store and buy a switch box to get it to work. I then remebered that I had a few of those "T" shaped splitters/combiners and I tested to see if that worked. They worked wonderfuly, so now my problem is solved.

Thank you everyone very much for your help, like I said earlier this is the most help I got from anywere.

[Unit]

Hello,
I have some helpful info for you guys...
There is an electrical term called 'impedance' you should become familair with. It is a circuit's (a cable is a circuit) resistance to an AC waveform (audio and video are AC waveforms).
Audio is such low frequency that impedance doesn't really matter that much, and depending on the equipment, it can be 1K to 47K ohms. Audio cables are cheap cables that are not impedance controlled, they will vary, and the consequences are little.
With video, impedance does make a difference, and most video equipment and cables are 75 ohms. However cheap OEM video cables that are not 75 ohms will cause a problem, mostly with high bandwidth video such as HDTV. Xbox, PS2, and GC, are all capable of producing high bandwidth HDTV signals.
Congratulations, you have just graduated from VU, Video University.

Now, the $30 mechanical switch boxes barely perform with composite video going through them, and if you try and send through HDTV, you will see a softening of the picture, and possibly image ghosts or double lines. Might be OK with you for 480P (non HD games), but ugly on 1080i games. Of course, all this is assuming you are viewing on an HD ready big screen, which if you are not, get with the program!  
Here are some links and comments to component video switchers I have found on other forums, from highest to lowest cost:

http://www.keydigital.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=KD-SW4x1
Switches video, coax digital audio, analog audio, from an IR command. Nice, but $599

http://www.zektor.com/home_theater.htm
Switches video, coax digital audio, optical digital audio, analog audio,  from and IR command. Price is $299, so it doesn't exactly meet the price target of $100

http://www.audioauthority.com/aacconsumers/1154c.html
Price on this one is $194, so still not low enough, but cheaper. Switches video and audio as well, but uses signal sensing to try and figure out what to watch. Works for some people, but others have found problems with it.

http://www.inday.com/rgb4x/rgb4x.htm
Switches only video, but low cost at $149. Enclosure is not to elegant, but gets the job done.

http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt-5842.htm
Switches video, and analog audio, but no digital audio. Price is $89, so it meets the $100 target. However, word of caution, there are many reports of this one have poor video quality or other problems. Now the Inday people have posted a technical review which reviels why:
http://www.inday.com/reviews/rgb4x-review.htm
Seems you get what you pay for. I'm not sure that this would even be suitable for 480P non HD games.

There is also a JVC mechanical switch that appears to be designed for component video, but when I researched all these options a while back, I was mainly focusing on things that can be remote controled.

So in my somewhat-professional opinion, I prefer the Zektor switch, and it is working nicely for me.
http://www.zektor.com/hds4/index.htm

That is all, back to work.
-The Unit

[anubis6789]

Thanks very much umm...Unit, but I have decided that it would be better for me to just switch them out manually, mainly because I don't watch movies all that much so it won't be to much of an inconveinience.

BTW I just knew there were differences between audio and video cables, though I wasn't to sure if impedance was the correct term.(though my use of the word bandwidth wasn't to far off, at least IMO)

Just a word to the wise, don't buy the Pelican switch box, I got one for X-mas last year, and boy did it just degrade my audio and video signal, so no one buy it.