Where the FOCK are they?
Tell me if you come across any, what store, online/offline, etc.
I'm NOT going to pay Madcatz or Pelican's riCOCKulous $40 whatever price tag for S-Video cables.
I happen to require 2 sets of cables. One for the living room game area, the other for video captures on my desktop.
[original post Fri, Nov. 17. Everything below is newer material.]
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THIS WILL BE THE OFFICIAL Wii S-FOCKING-VIDEO CABLE THREAD
I WILL LIST BRANDS OF KNOWN 3RD PARTY S-VIDEO CABLES WITH DIRECT LINKS TO ONLINE RETAIL LISTINGS, CUZ NINTENDO CABLES OBVIOUSLY SUCK SO HARD THEY DON'T EXIST OUTSIDE OF THEIR CRAP ONLINE STORE
AND I WILL INCLUDE MY OPINION OF EACH CABLE, FOR THE WELFARE OF THE COSMOS
[I've eliminated my individual cable reviews. My new guide below provides more accurate and practical info.]
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===== Wii VIDEO CABLE Buying Guide =====
~~~ Intro ~~~
A good "premium" set of audio/video cables for your game system is supposed to serve several functions:
1. Provide improved picture/sound quality over the default cables that came with your game system.
2. Ensure it can maintain picture and sound quality during typical usage.
3. Resist physical failure due to age and/or periodic transporting (plugging/unplugging/etc).
When shopping for a premium set, it's easy to find sets that are overpriced or don't care to specify what you're paying for. This brief guide can help you determine if a particular product is worthy of your wallet. I've bought and used quite a few Component/S-Video cables for my GameCube and Wii, and you can see my little collection [HERE] (under construction).
To see the differences in picture quality between Component Video and S-Video connections,
check out this article HERE.
Disclaimer: Six Sided Video is not responsible for your actions and consequences beyond this point. POINT.
~~~ Everything Else ~~~
** Primary Features
These are the main features a typical "premium" cable set should possess.
1. Shielding -- Shielded cables minimize the sound & picture degradation by blocking mischievous electromagnetic waves. Some interference symptoms include picture noise, wavy lines, and discoloration in the video, plus hisses, hums, cracks, and muffles in the audio. The cable's packaging should specify if shielding is provided. Sometimes, shielding is only mentioned on the cables themselves, so look carefully. (Only in rare, special cases will the shielding not prevent signal degradation--it's not that the cables aren't good enough, it's because the interference had a special, less obvious way of infiltrating your audio/video signals. It might be directly attacking your game console, your surround sound receiver, or your TV, and it'll take some detective work to figure out what's causing it. This would be a bigger problem than "bad A/v cables" since the culprit is probably adversely affecting other devices as well.)
2. Gold Plating -- Gold plated connectors minimize sound & picture degradation by improving conductivity at the plugs. Gold is more resistant to corrosion than standard tin connectors; the reduced deterioration of the connectors maintains a cleaner signal transmission over time. There is no magickal improvement in A/V quality over decent non-gold connectors; gold's practical purpose is to help ensure video & audio continue to look & sound good throughtout the cable's life.
3. Durable Construction -- Well-constructed plugs and wires made with tough materials are more likely to last that "lifetime". Due to gravity or the nature of your cabling setup, very sharp bends in the cable (plus wire fatigue) can can cause the conductor in the wire to break. If one plug goes bad, the entire cable is pretty much useless. Stiff wire jackets and reinforcement at the wire-plug junction help prevent the cable from bending at extreme angles. Thin, flimsy cables won't survive many transports, and are more likely to be dead-on-arrival just by being tightly wound/wrapped/bent in its retail package.
Recommendations:
~ You shouldn't pay more than $25 total for a 6-ft set that meets the above criteria. My "standard" is based on [this baby of mine] (under construction).
~ If a set costs $20+ and is obviously lacking in some area after inspection (like, you found no specs list whatsoever), FORGET IT and find a different brand/model.
* Secondary Features
Other features that may influence your purchase, and explain some variations in price.
1. Cable Length -- The typical cable length is about 6-ft. Some people will appreciate having a few more feet of cable, depending on their entertainment setup. Some crazy brands will charge up to $60 for a 12-ft premium cable. Other brands are in a comfy 8 to 10-ft range, priced at $25 or more. Eventually, you'll find the 12-ft $60 cables in a clearance bin for $15 after a few months, cuz NO ONE IN THEIR RIGHT MIND bothered to cough up a RIDICULOUS $60 the first time around.
2. Plug Size -- Premium cables often have plugs that are REALLY thick and excessively fancy, like the overpriced stuff you'll find in Best Buy's HDTV section. On occasion, the innocent cable shopper will discover his/her TV's A/V input sockets are spaced pretty close together, close enough that the oversized plugs on their brand new premium A/V cables don't all fit. There's so much needless casing built around 1 premium plug that the adjacent premium plug can't slip into the next socket, leading to customer FURY and another trip to the electronics store. It's the cable maker's fault for designing stupidly huge plugs; regular cheapo plugs should fit just fine, so be aware of the spacing/locations of the sockets on the back of your TV/equipment.
3. Dual-Layer Shielding -- Apparently there's two kinds of interference cable manufacturers want us to be paranoid about, RFI and EMI. Having a "dual-layer" to protect against both is extra insurance.
4. Oxygen-free Copper Conductor -- Like the Gold Plating mentioned earlier, oxygen-free copper helps ensure "maximum signal transfer" and boosts the consumer's confidence in the cable. No magickal improvement in output quality, however.
5. Other esoteric technical crap -- Good for attracting the customers that don't know they're paying too much.
More Recommendations:
~ If you decide not to take the "premium" path, then get your cables cheap, AS CHEAP AS YOU CAN FIND, cuz there's many nameless 3rd-party cables that sell for next-to-nothing. If you don't mind a cable that doesn't promise much, then save a few bucks. eBay & Google are good places to start looking.
~ As far as I can tell, Nintendo's cables are not premium, yet they're priced just as high. Don't bother with them.
~ If you go premium, do the research, shop around, and get the best deal. If you buy a $60 cable, stab yourself with a coconut.
Here's a list of brands I know of that provide Component and/or S-Video cables for Wii:
ASiD
Blaze
Cables Unlimited
CTA Digital
Dragon
ezGear
GameStop
HVG2
Intec
Just-Works
MadCatz
MADCOW
Monster Cable
Nintendo
Nyko
Panther Lord
Penguin United
Psyclone
React
Talismoon